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ATURAL 

WOODS- 



AND HOW TO FINISH 
THEM 



PRESENTED BY 
BERRY BROTHERS, Limited 

VARNISH MANUFACTURERS 

DETROIT 






THIS IS THE 

MOST DURABLE VARNISH 

IN THE WORLD 




UNEQUALLED FOR FLOOR FINISHING 

AND FOR AU, VARNISHING WHERE 
THE WEAR IS EXCESSIVE 

FOR SALE BY ALL DEALERS 



PREFACE 

IT is with much pleasure that we present a revised and en- 
larged edition of our practical book on wood finishing. The 
earlier issues were so well received that we believe this 
will meet with still wider favor, containing as it does new mat- 
ter of interest to both architects and wood-finishers. We have 
endeavored to be practical, eliminating all matter having no 
direct bearing on the subject treated. 

There is nothing experimental in the methods given for 
the various styles of wood finishing. They are all based upon 
actual experience and may be relied upon as being correct. 

While the use of Berry Brothers* varnishes, wood finishes 
and other products, makes possible the very best results in the 
way of a finish, whatever of value may be found in the hints 
and directions given herein, is in no way impaired because we 
suggest the use of Berry Brothers' Finishes. The staining, 
shellacing, filling, etc., as the case may be, are the necessary 
preludes to a successful finish, whatever varnishes may be used 
to finish with, and the mode of applying and manipulating, all 
interior varnishes is substantially the same. 

We trust our book may serve as a useful reference for 
the architect in writing his specifications, and also that it may 
not be devoid of interest to our good friends the Decorators 
and Wood Finishers. 

Copyrighted 1911 by- 
Berry Brothers, Limited 
Varnish Manufacturers 
Established 1858 
DETROIT 
Fifth Edition 



r^&h 



©CI.A28KN-. J 



INDEX 

R. & T. Index — Varnishes — Berry Bros 

To finish Ash, 44 

" Bathrooms, 69 

" Beech, 52 

•' Birch, 55 

Butternut, 56 

" Cedar, 59 

" Cherry, 49 

" : Chestnut, 44 

Cypress, 60 

'• Dull Finish, 71 

" Floors, 66 

-Gumwood, 57 

Hemlock, 64 

" Inside Blinds, 69 

" Mahogany, 46 

" Maple, 53 

" Oak, : 13 

" "..".Antique, 36 

" "...Antwerp, 42 

" "...Austrian, 30 

" "-Bog, 41 

" "...Cathedral, 39 

" "...Dutch Brown, 17 

" "...English, 17 

"...Filipino, 29 

"...Forest Green, 26 

" "...Golden, 14-16 

" "...Malachite, 27 

"...Flemish, Brown, 19 

" " ...Green, 21 

" " " -Black, 22 



To finish Oak, Mission, 38 

" "...Ox Blood, 24 

" ! "...Rotterdam, 32 

" "...Silver Gray, 34 

" r. "...Sumatra (Brown, 17 

" "...Weathered, 32 

" Outside Doors, Store Fronts, etc., 67 

" Pine, 62 

" Poplar or Whitewood, 64 

" Prima Vera, 48 

" Redwood, 59 

" : Shingles, , . 69 

" Sycamore, ! 50 

" Walnut, 56 

" White Mahogany, ...48 

Whitewood or Poplar, 64 

" Window Sash and Sills, 69 

Advice on Wood Finishing — See marginal note, 80 

Comparative merits of Oil 

and Water Stains, 
Covering capacity of Lacklustre, See 

" Oil Stains, • " 

" Shellac, 
" Shingletint, 
" Spirit Stains, 
" Varnish, 
" Water Stains, 
Desirability of Luxeberry Wood Finish, 

"White" " " " 76 

Dull Finish, 70 

Egg Shell Gloss, — See marginal note, : 71 

Elastic Interior Finish, 10 

" Outside " 9 

Evils of hurried work — See marginal note, 73 



i 77 


rgin 


al note, 


78 


a 


a. 


78 


a 


a 


78 


a 


a 


78 


(l 


it 


78 


a 


u 


77 


a 


a 


78 



Flemish, Brown, 19 

Flemish, Green, - 2i 

Free samples of finished woods — See marginal note,., 80 

Greasy surfaces — See marginal note, 75 

Imitation Rubbed Finish, 71 

Lacklustre, 12 

Liquid Fillers ; their use, limitations and 

covering capacity^See marginal note, 78 

Liquid Granite, 8 

Luxeberry Wood Finish, 6 

Paste Fillers — Rules for reducing, See marginal note, 79 

Covering capacity, " " . " 79 

Polished Work, " " " 73 

Proper finishing conditions, " " " 72 

Refinishing church and school seats,... — " " " 75 

old work, " " " 75 

Shingletint, 10 

Staining old work, See marginal note, 77 

Use and omission of Shellac Coat, " " " 76 

Why a Shellac Coat is desirable 

before filling, " fi " 74 

Why first coat of Stain is sandpapered, " " " 73 

Why second coat of Stain is diluted, " " " 73 

Why wood turns dark and how to 

defer it, " " " 7^ 



WHAT TO USE 




Natural Woods 



LUXEBERRY WOOD FINISH. 
(trade mark.) 



T^ HIS is for general interior work, and is unequalled 
for producing a handsome and durable finish on 
all woods. It develops and preserves the grain, and 
can either be left in the natural gloss or rubbed and 
polished, as may be desired. 

Luxeberry Wood Finish "White" is very pale 
and can be used on the lightest woods without dis- 
coloring them in the least, while the "light" is suitable 
for Oak, Ash, Chestnut and similar woods. 

Where an especially fine finish is wanted, we recom- 
mend Luxeberry Wood Finish "White" on any 
wood, as it is an exceptionally nice article and well 
repays the additional cost per gallon. 

Luxeberry Wood Finish is a new name for genu- 
ine Hard Oil Finish, of which we are the originators 
and sole manufacturers. 



and hozv to -finish them. 7 

So many worthless varnishes are now offered, 
wrongfully called Hard Oil Finish, that we have de- 
cided to put out our standard grades of Hard Oil Fin- 
ish as Luxeberry Wood Finish "White" or "Light" 
under which name the consumer may hereafter de- 
pend upon getting Berry Brothers' genuine Hard 
Oil Finish, upon which we have built up an inter- 
national reputation. 

The word "Luxeberry" is derived from "Luxe," 
meaning highest quality, joined to our name, the com- 
pound word "Luxeberry" being our duly registered 
trade mark. 

The specification of "Luxeberry Wood Finish" 
("White" or "Light") will tend to check imposition 
and do much toward affording protection against 
the evils resulting from the use of poor or unsuitable 
varnish on the woodwork, and we hope all who are 
friendly to the use of Berry Brothers' Hard Oil 
Finish will adopt the new name to our mutual in- 
terest. 

This change of name need not result in any compli- 
cations, as it simply necessitates writing for Berry 
Brothers' White Hard Oil Finish, "Luxeberry 
Wood Finish" ("White") and for Berry Brothers' 
Light Hard Oil Finish, "Luxeberry Wood Finish" 
("Light.") 



Natural Woods 



LIQUID GRANITE. 
(trade mark.) 



""T HE practice of dispensing with carpets and finish- 
ing floors in natural woods has become so popular 
that an imperative demand has arisen for a "Finish" 
possessing greater elasticity and wearing properties 
than any ordinary varnish. 

Liquid Granite is devised to meet this want; it is 
an entirely reliable article for use on parquetry and 
natural wood floors, combining as it does the three 
great requisites in a floor finish, elasticity, toughness 
and durability. 

Being transparent it will not obscure the grain of 
the wood, but will develop its beauty and preserve it. 

It will be found superior to any preparation of wax, 
being more easily applied, more economical to use and 
making a much more durable finish. 

Liquid Granite is so tough that although wood fin- 
ished with it will dent under a blow, the finish will 
give with it without cracking. 



and how to finish them. 9 

There are in the market a large number of articles 
called floor finish; there is but one Liquid 
Granite, the name being a registered trade mark, 
and once used it will be used always, as it is the only 
perfect floor finish made. 



ELASTIC OUTSIDE FINISH, 



^T HIS is intended for store fronts, outside doors, 
and other purposes, where the exposure is ex- 
cessive, and will be found superior to any thing of the 
kind hitherto offered. 

It is made with special reference to durability under 
exposure to the weather, dries dust-free quickly, and 
will make either a dead or a brilliant finish. The 
official reports made on tests by the Master House 
Painters' and Decorators' Association of the United 
States on twenty-four different makes of outside 
varnishes, not only commended our Elastic Out- 
side Finish, but showed it to dry dust-proof quicker 
than any other commended outside varnish tested 

The value of this feature is apparent. 



10 Natural Woods 

ELASTIC INTERIOR FINISH, 



r T* HIS is intended for such interior work as is sub- 
jected to severe exposure or usage. It has many 
of the characteristics of Luxeberry Wood Finish, and 
is tougher and somewhat slower drying. It possesses 
great elasticity, combined with unusual durability and 
will resist the action of hot water, soap, etc., longer 
than anything else we know of. It is peculiarly 
adapted for use on window sash and sills, bath rooms, 
inside blinds, etc., and is also especially suitable for 
such portions of the interior wood-work as are to be 
left with an unrubbed varnish finish. 

We confidently offer Elastic Interior Finish as 
the best article of its kind yet introduced. 

SHINGLETINT. 
(trade mark.) 



CHINGLE STAINS need no introduction. The 
artistic effects produced by their use is well un- 
derstood, as well as their preservative properties, 
when they are scientifically made. 



and how to finish them. 11 

Shingletint represents the highest result yet at- 
tained in the manufacture of Shingle Stains, being 
a scientific combination of linseed oil, coloring pig- 
ments, creosote oils and the necessary drying agents. 
It possesses great penetrative and preservative quali- 
ties and prolongs the life of the shingles by retarding 
decay, at the same time imparting an artistic finish. 

We can supply Shingletint in the following 
colors, which are indicated by numbers for conven- 
ience in ordering: No. 10 Buff, No. 20 Dark Red, 
No. 30 Light Green, No. 40 Brown, No. 50 Red, 
No. 60 Dark Green, No. 70 Light Gray, No. 80 Black, 
No. 90 Moss Green. 

Shingletint contains nothing of a poisonous na- 
ture, and will not spoil roof water when collected 
into a cistern for domestic purposes. It is customary 
and advisable, however, to allow the first few rains 
that occur after staining the shingles to run to waste 
so as to wash off the superfluous pigment which might 
otherwise impart an unpleasant taste to the water. 

In Shingletint the high water mark of quality 
in Shingle Stains is reached. 



12 Natural Woods 

LACKLUSTRE.* 

(trade mark.) 



P HIS is for producing the various dull effects on 
wood. The finish does not in any way resemble 
a rubbed varnish surface, but presents a dull and 
lustreless effect more like a wax finish. 

A single operation produces the finish, which is 
adapted to both hard and soft woods, and the method 
of application is extremely simple, consisting merely 
of applying one coat with a soft brush and then wip- 
ing with a bunch of cotton waste or piece of cheese 
cloth. 

We can supply Lacklustre in the following col- 
ors : Green Flemish, Brown Flemish, Black Flemish, 
Golden, Mission, Antwerp, Filipino, Silver Gray, 
Light and Dark Weathered, Forest Green, and Bog. 

We can also supply Transparent Lacklustre if 

necessary but it must be distinctly understood that 

it should only be used over a stain, and has no value 

as a finish for applying to woods in the natural color. 

If Water Stain is used in connection with Trans- 
parent Lacklustre, a thin coat of Shellac must fol- 

*When we .first introduced Lacklustre the process consisted of 
a coat of water stain followed by a thin coat of shellac and a coat of 
Lacklustre (which was transparent). 

The one process Lacklustre described above supersedes the orig- 
inal process, and the use of the transparent Lacklustre is no longer 
necessary, the staining and finishing being done at a single operation. 



and hoiv to finish them. 13 

low the Stain, as the Transparent Lacklustre causes 
the Water Stain to run* unless a thin coat of Shellac 
is used over it as a fixative or binder. 

The new style of wood finishing is as well adapted 
to soft woods as hard, and pine, poplar, cypress, and 
similar woods may be treated at very little expense, 
the finished result costing less than paint and being 
much more artistic in appearance. 

Both cypress and yellow pine are susceptible to very 
artistic effects in dull finish, the broad markings of 
rift sawed yellow pine being especially effective. 

OAK. 

A MONG the many woods used for interior trim 

none have superseded oak in popularity. There 

are substantial reasons for this, as besides its great 

durability, oak has a very handsome grain, especially 
when quarter sawed, and this grain being susceptible 

of a greater variety of handsome effects by staining 
than any other wood used for interior finishing pur- 
poses, it is not to be wondered at that oak has the 
leading place among architectural woods. 

The styles in oak finish change quite frequently, 
old "Finishes'' becoming obsolete as new ones are 
introduced. Some styles meet with such favor that 



14 Natural Woods 

they become standard, but it is quite out of the ques- 
tion for them all to achieve enduring popularity. 

We propose to make brief mention of such styles 
of oak finish as are in use at the present time, with 
such hints and directions for producing the various 
effects as are likely to be interesting and useful to the 
Architect, the Painter and Decorator. 



GOLDEN OAK. 



"* HIS is one of the most popular styles, and bids 
fair to become permanent. There is no univers- 
ally accepted standard of color for it, and it has quite 
a wide latitude as to shade, varying according to 
locality and individual taste. Certain communities or 
manufacturing centers seem to establish a standard 
that has recognition in the markets controlled by or 
tributary to them, and outside of that other standards 
prevail, although they are mostly shades or modifica- 
tions of rich brown or yellow, with the 'quarterings 
more or less prominent and of lighter color than the 
field. 



and how to finish them. 15 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For An Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Berry 
Brothers' Golden Oak Water Stain, allow time to 
dry, then sandpaper lightly with fine sandpaper (to 
bring up the high lights) and apply a second coat of 
Stain diluted about one-half with water which will 
throw the grain into still higher relief, and so produce 
the effect of contrast that constitutes one of the feat- 
ures of Golden Oak. Follow with a light coat of thin 
Shellac, sand lightly with fine sandpaper, and fill with 
Berry Brothers' Paste Filler colored to match the 
stain, then give a coat of Orange Shellac, sand lightly 
and finish with two or three coats of Berry Brothers' 
Luxeberry Wood Finish (White or Light) ; rub first 
coats with hair cloth or curled hair, and the last coat 
with pulverized pumice stone and crude oil or raw 
linseed oil. 

For a Dull Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water, 
instead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last 
coat be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and 
water, and then with pulverized rotten stone and 
water, and for a piano finish specify a further rubbing 



16 Natural Woods 

with Berry Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a 
little pulverized rotten stone, applied with a piece of 
soft felt or flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specmca- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 

NOTES. 

P HE above directions are for what is known as 
dark Golden Oak; light Golden Oak is produced 
in precisely the same manner, except that the Stain is 
not so dark, the filler being the same in either case. 

Use Berry Brothers' Light Paste Filler and bring 
to the right shade by mixing in Burnt Umber and 
Venetian red until the desired color is obtained. The 
right proportion is about 12 ozs. burnt umber and 4 
ozs. Venetian red to 20 lbs. of light paste filler. 

GOLDEN OAK. 

ANOTHER WAY. 



CILL with a coat of Berry Brothers' Golden Oak 

Paste Filler, and follow with a coat of Berry 

Brothers' Golden Oak Granitum and a coat of Shellac. 



and how to finish them. 17 

Sandpaper and finish with two or three coats of Berry 
Brothers' Luxeberry Wood Finish (White or Light), 
in the same manner as directed above. 

This method is quicker than some and produces a 
very handsome finish. It may not suit everybody's 
ideas as to what Golden Oak should be, but it is artistic 
and we shall be pleased to send samples of finished 
wood showing what it looks like. 

ENGLISH OAK, SUMATRA BROWN, 
DUTCH BROWN. 



SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Berry 
Brothers' Water Stain, English Oak, Sumatra Brown 
or Dutch Brown, as the case may be, allow time to 
dry, sandpaper lightly with fine sandpaper (to bring 
up the high lights) and apply a second coat of stain 
diluted about one-half with water. Follow with a 
light coat of thin Shellac, sand lightly with fine sand- 
paper, and fill with Berry Brothers' Dark Paste Filler, 
then give a coat of Orange Shellac, sand lightly again, 
and finish with two or three coats of Berry Brothers' 
Luxeberry Wood Finish (White or Light) ; rub first 



18 Natural Woods 

coats with hair cloth or curled hair, and the last coat 
with pulverized pumice stone and crude oil or raw 
linseed oil. 

For a Dull Finish: — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water 
instead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last 
coat be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and 
water and then with pulverized rotten stone and water, 
and for a piano finish specify a further rubbing with 
Berry Brothers 5 Furniture Polish, used with a little 
pulverized rotten stone, applied with a piece of soft 
felt or flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 



NOTES. 

? HE paste filler for the above is prepared in the 
same manner as for Golden Oak, the same pig- 
ments being used, and practically the same propor- 
tions (12 ozs. burnt umber and 4 ozs. Venetian red to 
20 lbs. light paste filler), but varied slightly according 
to the desired result. 



and hozv to finish them. 19 

The English Oak comes pretty closely in color to 
the genuine wood, which is a dark brown. 

Sumatra Brown has a noticeable tint of red in it, 
giving the finish a rich, warm color, the marking of 
the grain also being tinged with a reddish brown 
instead of standing out light as they do on the English 
Oak. 

Dutch Brown is a still warmer color, owing to a 
trifle more Venetian Red being used in the filler. The 
grain of the wood shows up very handsomely but is 
strongly tinged with the prevailing color of the finish. 

It is the same with the three above named Finishes 
as with others of the Brown and Yellow groups ; there 
is no recognized and fixed standard of color, so that 
it is impossible to give exact and definite descrip- 
tions. 

BROWN FLEMISH. 



This is a rich, deep brown, somewhat resembling 
the English Oak, but darker in tone. 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat Berry 
Brothers' Brown Flemish Water Stain. When dry, 



20 Natural Woods 

sand lightly with fine sandpaper and apply a second 
coat of Stain reduced about one-half with water. 
Follow with a light coat of thin Shellac, sand lightly 
with fine sandpaper, and fill with Berry Brothers' 
light paste filler, tinted to the right shade with Van- 
dyke Brown. Sand lightly with 00 sandpaper and 
then give a coat of Orange Shellac, sand lightly again 
and follow with two or three coats of Berry Brothers' 
Luxeberry Wood Finish (White or Light) ; rub first 
coats with hair cloth or curled hair, and the last coat 
with pulverized pumice stone and crude oil or raw 
linseed oil. 

For a Dull Finish: — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water 
instead of oil. 

. For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last 
coat be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and 
water, and then with pulverized rotten stone and 
water, and for a piano finish specify a further rubbing 
with Berry Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a 
little pulverized rotten stone, applied with a piece 
of soft felt or flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 



and hozv to finish them. 21 

GREEN FLEMISH. 



THIS is really an old finish under a new name; 

when first introduced seme years, ago it was 

known as water oak, and had quite a following; it 

gradually died out, however, and has more recently 

been revived under the name of "Green Flemish." 

While very sombre in tone, this is a very handsome 
finish, the general effect being black, but relieved by 
high lights of a greenish gray. 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Berry 
Brothers' Green Flemish Water Stain, when dry, sand 
lightly with fine sandpaper, and apply a second coat 
of the stain diluted about one-half with water. Fol- 
low with a light coat of thin Shellac, sand lightly and 
fill with black paste filler. Sand lightly -again with 
00 sandpaper, and then give a coat of Orange Shellac, 
sandpaper, and follow with two or three coats of 
Berry Brothers' Luxeberry Wood Finish (White or 
Light) ; rub first coats with hair cloth, or curled hair, 
and the last coat with pulverized pumice stone and 
crude oil or raw linseed oil. 

For a Dull Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water 
instead of oil. 



22 Natural Woods 



For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and water 
and then with pulverized rotten stone and water, and 
for a piano finish specify a further rubbing with Berry 
Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a little pulver- 
ized rotten stone, applied with a piece of soft felt or 
flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 



BLACK FLEMISH. 

This, as its name indicates, is a black effect 
unrelieved by any other shade. The markings 
of quartered oak can be faintly seen but the gen- 
eral effect is a solid black. 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: . 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: One coat of Berry 
Brothers Black Flemish Water Stain, when dry, 
sand lightly with fine sandpaper and fill with black 
paste filler. Sand lightly again with 00 sandpaper, 
and then give a coat of Orange Shellac, sandpaper, 
and follow with two or three coats of Berry Broth- 
ers' Luxeberry Wood Finish (White or Light) ; 
rub first coats with hair cloth or curled hair, and 



and how to finish them. 23 

the last coat with pulverized pumice stone and 
crude oil or raw linseed oil. 

For a Dull Finish: — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water 
instead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish: — Specify that the last 
coat be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone 
and water and then with pulverized rotten stone 
and water, and for a piano finish specify a further 
rubbing with Berry Brothers' Furniture Polish, 
used with a little pulverized rotten stone, applied 
with a piece of soft felt or flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the speci- 
fications for rubbing the last coat. 

NOTES. 

T^ HE term Flemish is very indefinite, as the finishes 
known by this name differ widely in appearance ; 
finishers being by no> means unanimous as to its color, 
which varies from dead black through a number of 
shades or sub-tints of gray, green, brown and blue, 
the background in all cases being black or very dark. 

The two styles of Flemish described above have the 
widest popularity and will be found to fill most de- 
mands. 



24 Natural Woods 

For the Brown Flemish finish use Berry Brothers' 
Light Paste Filler colored with Vandyke Brown and 
Venetian Red, in the proportion of 12 ozs. Vandyke: 
Brown and 4 ozs. Venetian Red to 20 lbs. Light Paste 
Filler. For the Green Flemish use Berry Brothers' 
Light Paste Filler colored with drop black or dry 
lamp black. 



OX BLOOD. 



HT HIS is a comparatively new style of finish, the 
name being indicative of its color, which is a 
bright red. 

The quarterings show up very nicely and the gen- 
eral effect is bright and showy. 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Berry 
Brothers' Ox Blood Water Stain; when dry. sand 
lightly with fine sandpaper and then apply a second 
coat of Stain reduced about one-half with water. Fol- 
low with a light coat of thin Shellac, sand lightly, and 
fill with light paste filler colored to match the Stain. 



and how to finish them. 25 

When dry, sand lightly with 00 sandpaper and follow 
with a coat of orange Shellac. Give another light 
sanding and apply two or three coats of Berry 
Brothers' Luxeberry Wood Finish (White or Light) 
rub first coats with hair cloth or curled hair, and the 
last coat with pulverized pumice stone and crude oil 
or raw linseed oil. 

For a Dull Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water, 
instead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last 
coat be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone 
and water, and then with pulverized rotten stone and 
water, and for a piano finish specify a further rubbing 
with Berry Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a 
little pulverized rotten stone, applied with a piece of 
soft felt or flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 



NOTES. 

The Filler for the above finish is prepared by adding 
12 ozs. dry Rose Lake to 20 lbs. of Berry Brothers' 
Light Paste Filler. 



26 Natural Woods 

FOREST GREEN. 



T^ HIS is a very handsome finish, although a decided 
novelty in the way of oak finishing. It is a very 
soft color, being a shade of yellow green, somewhat 
resembling the first leaves of spring. 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat Berry 
Brothers' Forest Green Water Stain. When dry, sand 
lightly with fine sandpaper and then apply a coat of 
Forest Green Water Stain reduced about one-half 
with water. Follow with a light coat of thin Shellac, 
sand lightly and fill with light paste filler colored with 
chrome green in the proportion of one lb. to 20 lbs. of 
Berry Brothers' Light Paste Filler. When dry, sand 
lightly with 00 sandpaper and follow with a coat of 
Orange Shellac. Give another light sanding and apply 
two or three coats of Berry Brothers' Luxeberry 
Wood Finish (White or Light) ; rub first coats with 
hair cloth or curled hair, and the last coat with pul- 
verized pumice stone and crude oil or raw linseed oil. 

For a Dull Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water in- 
stead of oil. 



and how to finish them. &7 

For a Polished Finish: — Specify that the last 
coat be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone 
and water, and then with pulverized rotten stone and 
water, and for a piano finish specify a further rubbing 
with Berry Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a 
little pulverized rotten stone, applied with a piece of 
soft felt or flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 



MALACHITE. 



P HIS is also a green finish, but of a different shade 
to Forest Green. It lacks the yellow quality, and 
has a somewhat brighter appearance, the green hav- 
ing a bluish cast. 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Berry 
Brothers' Malachite Water Stain; when dry, sand 
lightly with a fine sandpaper and then apply a second 



28 Natural Woods 

coat of stain reduced about one-half with water. Fol- 
low with a light coat of thin Shellac, sand lightly and 
fill with Berry Brothers' Black paste filler. When 
dry, sand lightly with 00 sandpaper and follow with 
a coat of Orange Shellac, sand lig'htly again, and 
apply two or three coats of Berry Brothers' Luxe- 
berry Wood Finish (White or Light) ; rub first 
coats with hair cloth or curled hair, and the last 
coat with pulverized pumice stone and crude oil or 
raw linseed oil. 



For a Dull Finish: — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water in- 
stead of oil. 



For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last 
coat be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone 
and water, and then with pulverized rotten stone and 
water, and for a piano finish specify a further rubbing 
with Berry Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a 
little pulverized rotten stone, applied with a piece of 
soft felt or flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 



and how to finish them. 29 

FILIPINO. 



A NEW shade, the general tone of which is very 
dark, the field black and the marking of the grain 
a sort of dark mossy green. 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Berry 
Brothers' Filipino Water Stain ; when dry, sand lightly 
with fine sandpaper, and apply a second coat of the 
stain diluted about one-half with water. Follow with 
a light coat of thin Shellac, sand lightly and fill with 
black paste filler. Sand lightly again with .00 sand- 
paper, and then give a coat of Orange Shellac; sand- 
paper, and follow with two or three coats of Berry 
Brothers' Luxeberry Wood Finish (White or Light) ; 
rub first coats with hair cloth or curled hair, and the 
last coat with pulverized pumice stone and crude oil or 
raw linseed oil. 

For a Dull Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water in- 
stead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and 
water, and then with pulverized rotten stone and 
water, and for a piano finish specify a further rubbing 



30 Natural Woods 

with Berry Brothers' Furniture Polish used with a 
little pulverized rotten stone, applied with a piece of 
soft felt or flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 



AUSTRIAN. 



T 



HIS is a shade of grayish brown with the grain 
laintly showing through in nearly the same color. 



SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

One coat of Berry Brothers' Austrian Oak Stain, 
sand lightly with fine sandpaper and then apply a coat 
of black paste filler, followed by a light coat of thin 
White Shellac in which a little black has been dis- 
solved, and a coat of Transparent "Lacklustre." 

NOTES. 

T T is important to follow explicitly our directions 
for using a thin shellac coat, as it is merely intend- 
ed in this case to act as a binder for the filler coat, and 
should dry flat so as not to spoil the dull effect of a 
finish. 



and how to finish them. 31 

This finish has met with some favor in the gloss 
effect, and although the color tone is not exactly 
the same as described on preceding page, it is quite 
a pleasing shade and has some popularity. 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Berry 
Brother's Austrian Oak Stain; when dry sand 
lightly with fine sandpaper and fill with Black Paste 
Filler. Follow with a coat of White Shellac, sand 
lightly with 00 Sandpaper and follow with two or 
three coats of Berry Brothers' Luxeberry Wood 
Finish (White or Light) ; rub first coats with hair 
cloth or curled hair, and the last coat with pulver- 
ized pumice stone and crude oil or raw linseed oil. 

For a Dull Finish : — Specify that the last coat be 
rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water,, 
instead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish :— Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and 
water and then with pulverized rotten stone and 
water, and for a piano finish specify a further rub- 
bing with Berry Brothers' Furniture Polish, used 
with a little pulverized rotten stone, applied with a 
piece of soft felt or flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifi- 
cations for rubbing thelast coat. 



32 Natural Woods 

ROTTERDAM. 



" HIS is a very dark finish, something on the Black 

Flemish order with the grain showing through 

a sort of yellowish w T hite like discolored white pine. 

The desired effect demands an absolutely dull surface 

and is never seen in varnish or gloss finish. 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

One coat of Berry Brothers' Rotterdam Water 
Stain, sand lightly with fine sandpaper and apply 
a light coat of thin Shellac and a coat of black paste 
filler in the order named, followed by a coat of 
Transparent "Lacklustre." 

WEATHERED OAK. 



There is no universally accepted standard of color 
for the so-called "Weathered" effect, but the shades 
we describe have the widest' popularity and are 
what we always furnish when Weathered Oak Stain 
is ordered. 

The Light Weathered effect is a composite color 
in appearance — yellow, brown and green all blend- 
ing in the general color tone, — the open grain of 
the wood being black, and the quarterings showing 



and hozv to finish them. 33 

up a trifle lighter than the field. The Dark 
Weathered effect has the same general characteris- 
tics as the Light, but the color tone is deeper. 

NOTES. 

While it is true that the Weathered Oak finish is 
generally seen as one of the dull effects, it is some- 
times varnished, and when this is desired, 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Berry 
Brothers' Light or Dark Weathered Oak Stain; 
dry, sand lightly with fine sandpaper, and apply a 
second coat of the stain diluted about one-half with 
water. Follow with a light coat of thin Shellac, sand 
lightly and fill with black paste filler. Sand lightly 
again with 00 sandpaper, and then give a coat of 
Orange Shellac, sandpaper, and follow with two or 
three coats of Berry Brothers' Luxeberry Wood Fin- 
ish (White or Light) ; rub first coats with hair cloth 
or curled hair and the last coat with pulverized pumice 
stone and crude oil or raw linseed oil. 

For a Dull Finish: — Specify that the last coat- be 
rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water, in- 
stead of oil. 



34 Natural Woods 

For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and water 
and then with pulverized rotten stone and water, and 
for a piano finish specify a further rubbing with Berry 
Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a little pulver- 
ized rotten stone, applied with a piece of soft felt or 
flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 

SILVER GRAY. 



T* HIS belongs in reality to the "Weathered" Oak 
group, but owing to its distinctive style it has 
become known as Silver Gray. 

Its appearance is fairly described by the name, 
which is a light gray with the quarterings showing 
through in the same general color tone, but a trifle on 
the yellow order. 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Berry 
Brothers' Silver Gray Water Stain; when dry, sand 
lightly with fine sandpaper, and follow with a light 
coat of thin Shellac, sand lightly and fill with light 
paste filler to which a little flake white has been added. 



and how to finish them. 35 

Sand lightly with 00 sandpaper and then give a coat 
of White Shellac, sandpaper, and follow with two or 
three coats of Berry Brothers' Luxeberry Wood Finish 
(White or Light) ; rub first coats with hair cloth or 
curled hair, and the last coat with pulverized pumice 
stone and crude oil or raw linseed oil. 

For a Dull Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water in- 
stead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish: — Specify that the last 
coat be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone 
and water, and then with pulverized rotten stone and 
water, and for a piano finish specify a further rubbing 
with Berry Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a 
little pulverized rotten stone, applied with a piece of 
soft felt or flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 

NOTES. 

Oak, Ash, Chestnut and other open-grained woods 
present an artistic appearance in the Silver Gray 
effect, land Yellow Pine and Cypress also look well 
finished this way, especially if the woods have nice, 
broad markings. Bird's eye maple looks particularly 
handsome in the Silver Gray effect. 



36 Natural Woods 

ANTIQUE. 



DERHAPS no style of Oak Finish has a wider lati- 
tude as to color than the so-called "Antique," and 
there is no fixed standard for it otherwise than it is 
brown or some modification of it, and the only solution 
of the point is for the finisher to defer to the wishes of 
his patron. "Antique" Oak may be stained or not as 
may be desired, and a popular shade of "Antique" 
may be had by simply filling the grain of the wood 
with dark or Antique paste filler, following with a 
coat of Shellac, and finishing in the regular way. 

If other effects are wanted, the wood should be 
stained and treated in the same manner as for Golden, 
English and other styles of oak. 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Berry 
Brothers' Antique Water Stain ; when dry, sand lightly 
with fine sandpaper, and then apply a second coat 
Antique Oak Stain diluted about one-half with water. 
Follow with a light coat of thin Shellac, sand lightly 
and fill with light paste filler colored to the desired 



and how to finish them. 37 

shade with Vandyke Brown and Venetian Red in 
the proportion of 12 ozs. Vandyke Brown and 4 ozs. 
Venetian Red to 20 lbs. Berry Brothers' Light Paste 
Filler. When dry, sand lightly with 00 sandpaper and 
follow with a coat of Orange Shellac, sand lightly 
again and apply two or three coats of Berry Brothers' 
Luxeberry Wood Finish (White or Light) ; rub first 
coats with hair cloth or curled hair, and the last coat 
with pulverized pumice stone and crude oil or raw 
linseed oil. 



For a Dull Finish: — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water 
instead of oil. 



For a Polished Finish. — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and water 
and then with pulverized rotten stone and water, and 
for a piano finish specify a further rubbing with Berry 
Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a little pulver- 
ized rotten stone, applied with a piece of soft felt or 
flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat, 



38 Natural Woods 

MISSION OAK. 



SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Berry 
Brothers' Mission Oak Water Stain; when dry, sand 
with fine sandpaper and apply a second coat of Stain 
diluted about one-half with water. Follow with a light 
coat of thin Shellac, sand lightly and fill with Berry 
Brothers' light paste filler, colored to match the stain. 
When dry, sand lightly with 00 sandpaper, and give a 
coat of Orange Shellac. Sand lightly again and follow 
with two or three coats of Berry. Brothers' Luxeberrry 
Wood Finish (White or Light) ; rub first coats with 
haircloth or curled hair, and the last coat with pulver- 
ized pumice stone and crude oil or raw linseed oil. 

For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and water 
and then with pulverized rotten stone and water, and 
for a piano finish specify a further rubbing with 
Berry Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a little 
pulverized rotten stone, applied with a piece of soft 
felt or flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 



and how to -finish them. 39 

NOTES. 

COR the above finish use Berry Brothers' Light 
Paste Filler colored with Umber and Venetian 
Red; 12 ounces of Umber and 4 ounces of Venetian 
Red to 20 pounds of filler will give about the shade 
required. 

The color of "Mission Oak" is a shade between the 
"English" and "Dark Golden" finishes, the quartering 
being in less pronounced contrast to the field than in 
either the "Dark Golden" or "English" finishes. 



CATHEDRAL OAK. 



SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Berry 
Brothers' Cathedral Oak Water Stain ; when dry, sand 
with fine sandpaper, and apply a second coat of the 
stain diluted about one-half with water. Follow with 
a thin coat of Shellac, sand lightly and fill with Berry 
Brothers' paste filler, colored to match the stain. 
When dry, sand lightly with 00 sandpaper and apply 
a coat of Orange Shellac. Sand lightly again and 
follow with two or three coats of Berry Brothers' 



40 Natural Woods 

Luxeberry Wood Finish (White or Light) ; rub first 
coats with hair cloth or curled hair, and the last coat 
with pulverized pumice stone and crude oil or raw 
linseed oil. 

For a Dull Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water, in- 
stead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last 
coat be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and 
water and then with pulverized rotten stone and water, 
and for a piano finish specify a further rubbing with 
Berry Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a little 
pulverized rotten stone, applied with a piece of soft 
felt or flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 



NOTES. 

T^HE color tone of this style of finish is of the same 
order as "Brown Flemish/' the field being as dark, 
but the general effect a trifle less sombre by reason 
of the quarterings being lighter and showing up in 
higher relief. 



and how to finish them. 41 

For this finish use Berry Brothers' Light Paste 
Filler colored with Vandyke Brown in the proportion 
of 1 lb. to 20 lbs. filler. 

BOG OAK. 



HTHIS is quite a handsome style of finish, although 
very dark in tone, the field being black and the 
quarterings showing through in a shade of yellowish 
green. 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Berry 
Brothers' Bog Oak Water Stain; allow time to dry; 
sand with fine sandpaper and then apply a second 
coat of Stain diluted about one-half with water. Fol- 
low with a light coat of thin Shellac, sand lightly and 
fill with black paste filler; when dry, sand lightly with 
00 sandpaper and follow with a coat of Orange Shel- 
lac, sand again and apply two or three coats of Berry 
Brothers' Luxeberry Wood Finish (White or Light) ; 
rub first coats with hair cloth or curled hair, and the 
last coat with pulverized pumice stone and crude oil 
or raw linseed oil. 



42 Natural Woods 



* 



For a Dull Finish : — Specify that the last coat be 
rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water, in- 
stead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish: — Specify that the last 
coat be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and 
water and then with pulverized rotten stone and 
water, and for a piano finish specify a further rubbing 
with Berry Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a 
little pulverized rotten stone, applied with a piece of 
soft felt or flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 



ANTWERP OAK. 



When the dull effect is wanted, 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

One coat of Berry Brothers' Antwerp Lacklustre 
applied with a soft brush and wiped off with a bunch 
of cotton waste or piece of cheese cloth. 



and how to finish them. 43 

When a gloss finish is wanted, 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Berry 
Brothers' Antwerp Water Stain. When dry, sand 
lightly with fine sandpaper and apply a second coat of 
Stain, reduced about one-half with water. Follow 
with a light coat of thin Shellac, sand lightly with fine 
sandpaper and fill with Berry Brothers' Black Paste 
Filler. Sand lightly with 00 sandpaper, and then give 
a coat of Orange Shellac, sand lightly again and fol- 
low with two or three coats of Berry Brothers' Luxe- 
berry Wood Finish (White or Light) ; rub first coats 
with hair cloth or curled hair, and the last coat with 
pulverized pumice stone and crude oil or raw linseed 
oil. 

For a Dull Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water 
instead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and 
water, and then with pulverized rotten stone and water 
and for a piano finish specify a further rubbing with 
Berry Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a little 



44 Natural Woods 

pulverized rotten stone, applied with a piece of soft 
felt or flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for the last coat. 



NOTES. 

TTHIS was originally one of the dull finishes and 
until recently was never varnished, but it is now 
gradually being adopted as one of the gloss finishes. 
The general color tone is very dark brown, the black 
filler emphasizing the sombre effect, which however, 
is relieved somewhat by the markings which show 
through in a lighter brown than the prevailing shade. 



ASH, CHESTNUT. 



THHE'SE are open grained woods and require filling. 
When it is desired to finish in the natural color 
without staining, 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Berry 
Brothers' Light Paste Filler, followed by one coat of 



and how to finish them. 45 

White Shellac sandpapered to a smooth surface, and 
two or three coats of Berry Brothers' Luxeberrry 
Wood Finish (White or Light) ; rub first coats with 
hair cloth or curled hair, and the last coat with pul- 
verized pumice stone and crude oil or raw linseed oil. 

For a Dull Finish : — Specify that the last coat be 
rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water, in- 
stead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and water 
and then with pulverized rotten stone and water, and 
for a piano finish specify a further rubbing with Berry 
Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a little pulver- 
ized rotten stone, applied with a piece of soft felt or 
flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 



NOTES, 



DOTH Ash and Chestnut are susceptible of rich and 

varied efifects by staining, the large, open grain and 

broad markings, especially on the chestnut, lending 

themselves to very artistic treatment. Both these 

woods can be handled by the finisher in precisely the 



46 Natural Woods 

same manner as oak, using the same stains and em- 
ploying the same methods as described in the pre- 
ceding pages on Oak. 

MAHOGANY. 



^T HIS belongs to the open grained woods and re- 
quires filling. 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Berry 
Brothers' Paste Filler to match the color of the wood, 
followed by a coat of Orange Shellac sandpapered to 
a smooth surface, and two or three coats of Berry 
Brothers' Luxeberry Wood Finish (White or Light) ; 
rub first coats with hair cloth or curled hair, and the 
last coat with pulverized pumice stone and crude oil 
or raw linseed oil. 

For a Dull Finish : — Specify that the last coat be 
rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water, in- 
stead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and water 



and how to finish them. 47 

and then with pulverized rotten stone and water, and 
for a piano -finish specify a further rubbing with Berry 
Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a little pulver- 
ized rotten stone, applied with a piece of soft felt or 
flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 



NOTES. 

TF it is required to deepen the natural color of Mahog- 
any, it can be done by using a light filler darkened 
with burnt sienna to the desired tint. 

If "antique" or dark Mahogany is required, precede 
the filling by staining the wood with a solution of 
bi-chromate of potash and water, or a coat of Berry 
Brothers' Mahogany Stain. 

Much of the so-called Mahogany in present use is 
in reality Baywood or American Mahogany, as it is 
called. This wood is very much lighter in color than 
true Mahogany and is rather cold and insipid in tone 
when finished in the natural color. 



48 Natural Woods 

PRIMA VERA OR WHITE MAHOGANY. 



T^ HIS wood is open grained and must be filled. It is 
invariably finished in the natural color, as stain- 
ing would mar its delicate shade and markings. 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Berry 
Brothers' Light Paste Filler, followed by one coat of 
White Shellac sandpapered to a smooth surface and 
two or three coats of Berry Brothers' Luxeberry Wood 
Finish (White) ; rub first coats with hair cloth or 
curled hair, and the last coat with pulverized pumice 
stone and crude oil or raw linseed oil. 

For a Dull Finish : — Specify that the last coat be 
rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water, in- 
stead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and water 
and then with pulverized rotten stone and water, and 
for a piano finish specify a further rubbing with Berry 
Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a little pulver- 
ized rotten stone, applied with a piece of soft felt or 
flannel. 



and hozv io finish them. 49 

If a rubbed finish is* not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 

CHERRY. 



T 



HIS is a close grained wood and requires no filling. 
When it is desired to finish in the natural color, 



SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Orange 
Shellac sandpapered to a smooth surface, followed by 
two or three coats of Berry Brothers' Luxeberry Wood 
Finish (White or Light); rub first coats with hair 
cloth or curled hair, and the last coat with pulverized 
pumice stone and crude oil or raw linseed oil. 

For a Dull Finish : — Specify that the last coat be 
rubbed with pulverized pumice stone' and water, in- 
stead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and water 
and then with pulverized rotten stone and water, and 
for a piano -finish specify a further rubbing with Berry 
Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a little pulver- 



50 



r atural Woods 



ized rotten stone, applied with a piece of soft felt or 
flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 



NOTES. 

A LTHOUGH Cherry is a very beautiful wood in its 
** natural state, some tastes may prefer a deeper 
color, which necessitates the staining of the wood to 
the desired shade. In such cases precede the Shellac 
coat with a coat of Berry Brothers' Stain, Cherry or 
Mahogany, as may be desired. 

If the wood is required to be finished up as light as 
possible, specify White Shellac instead of Orange 
Shellac and omit staining. 



SYCAMORE. 



T^ HIS wood is usually quarter sawed for finishing 

purposes; it is almost invariably finished in the 

natural color, and being close grained, needs no filler. 



and how to finish them. 51 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Shellac 
(White Shellac if the natural color of the wood is to 
be preserved, or Orange Shellac if the wood is desired 
to be a little darker in tone) ; sandpaper to a smooth 
surface and follow with two or three coats of Berry 
Brothers' Luxeberry Wood Finish (White or Light) 
specify Luxeberry Wood Finish white, if the natural 
color of the wood is to be retained; rub first coats 
with hair cloth or curled hair, and the last coat with 
pulverized pumice stone and crude oil or raw linseed 
oil. 

For a Dull Finish : — Specify that the last coat be 
rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water, in- 
stead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and water 
and then with pulverized rotten stone and water, and 
for a piano finish specify a further rubbing with Berry 
Brothers' Furniture Polish used with a little pulver- 
ized rotten stone, applied with a piece of soft felt or 
flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 



52 Natural Woods 

BEECH. 



HT HIS wood, while not extensively used hitherto in 
architectural work, is now being brought forward 
for interior trim, and makes a very handsome appear- 
ance when properly treated, especially when quarter 
sawed. 



It is close grained and needs no filling. 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of White 
Shellac sandpapered to a smooth surface, followed by 
two or three coats of Berry Brothers' Luxeberry Wood 
Finish (White or Light) ; rub first coats with hair 
cloth or curled hair and the last coat with pulverized 
pumice stone and crude oil or raw linseed oil. 

For a Dull Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water, 
and then with pulverized rotten stone and water, and 
for a piano finish specify a further rubbing with Berry 



and hozv to finish them. 53 

Brothers* Furniture Polish, used with a little pulver- 
ized rotten stone, applied with a piece of soft felt or 
flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 

NOTES. 

r HE above specifications provide for finishing the 
wood in the natural color, but if desired, handsome 
effects can be produced by staining. 

The wood takes Mahogany and Walnut Stains very 
well, and an excellent "Cherry"' can be made with the 
Red Beech. 

When this wood is stained specify Orange Shellac 
and precede the shellac coat with a coat of Berry 
Brothers" Stain, "Mahogany,"" "Cherry,"' "Walnut" or 
otherwise, as may be preferred. 



MAPLE. 



T 



HIS is close grained and does not require filling. 
For finishing in the natural color, 



SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of White 
Shellac sandpapered to a smooth surface, followed by 



54 Natural Woods 

two or three coats of Berry Brothers' Luxeberry Wood 
Finish (White) ; rub first coats with hair cloth or 
curled hair, and the last coat with pulverized pumice 
stone and crude oil or raw linseed oil. 

For a Dull Finish: — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water, in- 
stead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and water 
and then with pulverized rotten stone and water, and 
for a piano finish specify a further rubbing with Berry 
Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a little pulver- 
ized rotten stone, applied with a piece of soft felt or 
flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 

NOTES. 

J\ /I APLE is susceptible of very rich effects in Cherry 
* ' * and Mahogany by staining. If stained, specify 
Orange Shellac, and precede the Shellac coat with a 
coat of Berry Brothers' Stain, "Cherry" or "Ma- 
hogany," or otherwise as may be desired. 



and how to finish them. 55 

BIRCH. 



"^ HIS is a close grained wood and needs no filling. 
For finishing in the natural color, 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of White 
Shellac sandpapered to a smooth surface, followed by 
two or three coats of Berry Brothers' Luxeberry Wood 
Finish (White or Light) ; rub first coats with hair 
cloth or curled hair, and the last coat with pulverized 
pumice stone and crude oil or raw linseed oil. 

For a Dull Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water, in- 
stead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and water 
and then with pulverized rotten stone and water, and 
for a piano finish specify a further rubbing with Berry 
Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a little pulver- 
ized rotten stone, applied with a piece of soft felt or 
flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 



56 Natural Woods 

NOTES. 
F a deeper tone is required specify Orange Shellac 
instead of White Shellac. 

Birch also takes stain very nicely if the right kind 
is used. Cherry and Mahogany look particularly well 
on Birch. If stained, specify Orange Shellac, and pre- 
cede the Shellac coat with a coat of Berry Brothers' 
Stain, "Cherry," "Mahogany," or otherwise, as may 
be desired. 



WALNUT, BUTTERNUT. 



D OTH of the above are open grained woods and 
require filling. 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss:— One coat of Berry 
Brothers' Paste Filler to match the color of the wood, 
followed by a coat of Orange Shellac sandpapered to 
a smooth surface, and two or three coats of Berry 
Brothers' Luxeberry Wood Finish (White or Light) ; 
rub first coats with hair cloth or curled hair, and the 
last coat with pulverized pumice stone and crude oil 
or raw linseed oil. 



and hozv to finish them. 57 

For a Dull Finish: — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water, in- 
stead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and water 
and then with pulverized rotten stone and water, and 
for a piano finish specify a further rubbing with Berry 
Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a little pulver- 
ized rotten stone, applied with a piece of soft felt or 
flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 



GUM WOOD. 



HT HIS is close grained and needs no filling. 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Orange 
Shellac sandpapered to a smooth surface, followed by 
two or three coats of Berry Brothers' Luxeberry Wood 
Finish (White or Light) ; rub first coats with hair 
cloth or curled hair, and the last coat with pulverized 
pumice stone and crude oil or raw linseed oil. 



58 



Natural Woods 



For a Dull Finish: — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water, in- 
stead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and water 
and then with pulverized rotten stone and water, and 
for a piano finish specify a further rubbing with Berry 
Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a little pulver- 
ized rotten stone, applied with a piece of soft felt or 
flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 



NOTES. 



TTHE above specifications provide for finishing the 
wood in its natural color. 

Gum Wood can also be stained quite successfully 
and looks very handsome when properly done. Ma- 
hogany and Cherry are the most popular stains for 
this wood. If stained, specify Orange Shellac, and 
precede the Shellac coat with a coat of Berry Brothers' 
Stain, "Mahogany," "Cherry," or otherwise, as may 
be preferred. 



and how to finish them. 59 

REDWOOD, CEDAR. 



PHESE are close grained woods and need no filling. 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Orange 
Shellac sandpapered to a smooth surface, followed by 
two or three coats of Berry Brothers' Luxeberry Wood 
Finish (White or Light) ; rub first coats with hair 
cloth or curled hair, and the last coat with pulverized 
pumice stone and crude oil or raw linseed oil. 

For a Dull Finish : — Specify that the last coat be 
rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water, in- 
stead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and water 
and then with pulverized rotten stone and water, and 
for a piano finish specify a further rubbing with Berry 
Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a little pulver- 
ized rotten stone, applied with a piece of soft felt or 
flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 



60 



Natural Woods 



T^ HE above specifications provide for finishing the 
wood in the natural color, but very handsome 
effects can be produced by staining. 

If staining is required, precede the Shellac coat 
with a coat of Berry Brothers' Stain, "Mahogany," 
"Cherry," or otherwise, as may be wished. 

If it is desired to finish up the wood as light as 
possible specify White Shellac instead of Orange 
Shellac and omit staining. 



CYPRESS. 



T 



HIS is a close grained wood and needs no filling. 



For finishing in the natural color. 



SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of White 
Shellac sandpapered to a smooth surface, followed by 
two or three coats of Berry Brothers' Luxeberry Wood 
Finish (White or Light) ; rub first coats with hair 
cloth or curled hair, and the last with pulverized 
pumice stone and crude oil or raw linseed oil. 



and how to finish them. 61 

For a Dull Finish : — Specify that the last coat be 
rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water, in- 
stead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and water 
and then with pulverized rotten stone and water, and 
for a piano finish specify a further rubbing with Berry 
Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a little pulver- 
ized rotten stone, applied with a piece of soft felt or 
flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 



NOTES. 

J Fa little deeper tone than the natural color of the 
wood is desired, specify Orange Shellac instead of 
White Shellac. Very rich effects can also be produced 
on Cypress by staining, individual taste governing the 
choice as to color. 

There is a quality inherent in Cypress not met with 
in other woods, consisting of a peculiar greasy appear- 
ance on the surface. It is overcome in various ways 
by wood finishers, but we have found a second coat of 
Shellac, following the first, quite effective. 



62 Natural Woods 

<* 

If the wood is to be stained, specify Orange Shellac, 

and precede the Shellac coat with a coat of Berry 
Brothers' Stain, "Cherry," "Mahogany," or otherwise, 
as may be desired. 



PINE. 



T 



HIS being a close grained wood needs no filling 
For finishing in the natural color, 



SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of Shellac 
(White Shellac if the natural color of the wood is to 
be preserved, or Orange Shellac if the wood is to be 
stained, or is desired to be darker in tone than the 
natural color), sandpaper to a smooth surface, and 
follow with two or three coats of Berry Brothers' 
Luxeberry Wood Finish (White or Light) ; specify 
Luxeberry Wood Finish (White) if it is desired to 
retain the natural color of White Pine ; rub first coats 
with hair cloth or curled hair, and the last coat with 
pulverized pumice stone and crude oil or raw linseed 
oil. 



and how to finish them. 63 

For a Dull Finish : — Specify that the last coat be 
rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water, in- 
stead of oil. 

For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and water 
and then with pulverized rotten stone and water, and 
for a piano finish specify a further rubbing with Berry 
Brothers' Furniture Polish, used with a little pulver- 
ized rotten stone, applied with a piece of soft felt or 
flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 



NOTES. 

P HE first coat of Shellac should never be omitted 
on Pine, as it serves to kill the sap or pitch, which 
might otherwise, in the course of time, ooze out and 
mar the finish. 

If it is desired to retain the clear, bright color of 
Pine, never apply a first coat of linseed oil, as this 
will in time cause the wood to turn dark and present 
an unsightly appearance. 



64: Natural Woods 

If the wood is to be stained, specify Orange Shellac 
and precede the Shellac coat with a coat of Berry 
Brothers' Stain of the required shade. 

It may be here remarked that Georgia or Southern 
Pine is much more susceptible of rich and beautiful 
effects by staining than is White Pine. 



WHITEWOOD OR POPLAR, HEMLOCK. 



DOTH of these woods are close grained and need 
no filling. 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

For an Egg Shell Gloss: — One coat of White 
Shellac sandpapered to a smooth surface, followed 
by two or three coats of Berry Brothers' Luxeberry 
Wood Finish (White or Light) ; rub first coats with 
hair cloth or curled hair, and the last coat with pulver- 
ized pumice stone and crude or raw linseed oil. 

For a Dull Finish : — Specify that the last coat be 
rubbed with pulverized pumice stone and water in- 
stead of oil. 



and hozv to finish them. 65 

For a Polished Finish : — Specify that the last coat 
be rubbed first with pulverized pumice stone and water 
and then with pulverized rotten stone and water, and 
for a piano finish specify a further rubbing with Berry 
Brothers' Furniture Polish, used w T ith a little pulver- 
ized rotten stone, applied with a piece of soft felt or 
flannel. 

If a rubbed finish is not desired, omit the specifica- 
tions for rubbing the last coat. 



NOTES. 

T^ HESE specifications are for finishing the above 
woods in the natural color. If a deeper tone is 
desired specify Orange Shellac instead of White 
Shellac. 

These woods are sometimes stained, individual taste 
dictating the shade or color. 

When staining is desired, specify Orange Shellac, 
and precede the Shellac coat with a coat of Berry 
Brothers' Stain of the required shade. 



66 Natural Woods 

FLOOR FINISHING. 



C OR coarse or open grained woods, 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

Fill with Berry Brothers' Paste Filler to match the 
color of the wood, or if the wood is stained to match 
the color of the stain, wipe off clean, and apply two 
coats of Berry Brothers' "Liquid Granite A," taking 
care that the first coat is thoroughly hard before apply- 
ing the second ; rub the second coat down with pulver- 
ized pumice stone and crude oil or raw linseed oil, and 
then wipe the floor perfectly dry and clean, so that no 
trace of oil remains to catch the dirt. 

For close grained wood specify as above, but omit 
the filler. 



NOTES. 

T F color effects are wanted on floors the finishing 
should be preceded by staining, as directed herein 
for the various woods. 

In using such a tough and elastic Finish as "Liquid 
Granite'' it should be remembered that it cannot 



and how to finish them. 67 

» 
harden so quickly as varnishes possessing less elas- 
ticity, and care should be taken not to apply it too 
heavily or the drying will be unnecessarily retarded. 

A light coat is as efficacious as a heavy coat and is 
always to be preferred. 

For refinishing a floor and for linoleum use "Liquid 
Granite B." 

It is well to give old linoleum a thin coat of Shellac 
before applying the Liquid Granite. The reason for 
this is that places where the original surface of the 
linoleum is worn off are more or less spongy, and the 
Shellac coat stops the suction, making a hard uniform 
surface to finish on. 



OUTSIDE DOORS, STORE FRONTS, ETC. 



C OR work of this character, if the finish is to be in 
natural woods, 

SPECIFY AS FOLLOWS: 

One coat of Berry Brothers' Paste Filler to match 
the color of the wood, or if stained to match the color 
of the stain, followed by three or four coats of Berry 



68 Natural Woods 

• 
Brothers' Elastic Outside Finish. Allow each coat 
to get thoroughly hard before applying another, and 
rub each coat, except the last, with hair cloth or 
curled hair. The last coat to be rubbed with pulver- 
ized pumice stone and oil or water in the same man- 
ner as specified for Luxeberry Wood Finish. 

Although Elastic Outside Finish dries naturally to 
a handsome gloss, rubbing down as above directed im- 
proves the appearance and adds to the durability of the 
finish. 



NOTES. 

/^VNLY coarse or open grained woods need filling. 
^ > ^ On newly painted or grained work specify as 
above, and also add that all under coats must be thor- 
oughly hard before applying the finish. 

For old work the specifications should read the 
same as for newly painted or grained work, but specify 
in addition that before finishing, the work be well 
sandpapered and cleaned. 

It is of the utmost importance that each and every 
coat is thoroughly hard before applying another, as 
otherwise the finish is liable to crack. 



and haw to finish them. 69 

WINDOW SASH AND SILLS, BATH ROOMS, 
INSIDE BLINDS, ETC. 

HT HE wood should ibe shellaced or filled, either 
or both, according to the wood to be finished, 
in the same manner as heretofore described, and then 
receive two or three coats of Berry Brothers' Elas- 
tic Interior Finish, applied and manipulated in the 
same manner as our Luxeberry Wood Finish. 

Refer to index for wood to be finished, and 
word specifications in the manner directed, only 
substituting "Berry Brothers' Elastic Interior Fin- 
ish" for "Luxeberry Wood Finish." 



SHINGLES. 

*T* O get the best results in staining shingles they 
A should receive one dipping of "Shingletint" 
before being laid, and one brush coat after laying. 
It is only necessary to dip shingles two-thirds of 
their length. 

Shingles that are laid before staining should re- 
ceive not less than two coats of stain. Old shingles 
will take more stain than new, by reason of their 
greater absorbency. 



70 



Natural Woods 



The covering capacity of Shingletint depends upon 
the manner in which it is used. If brushed on, a gal- 
lon will cover 160 square feet, one coat, while 1^2 
gallons will cover the same surface two coats. From 
2J4 to %y 2 gallons is sufficient to dip 1,000 shingles, 
and less than a gallon more is enough for a brush coat 
in addition after the shingles are laid. 

While using "Shingletint" care should be taken to 
keep it thoroughly stirred from the bottom, so as to 
keep the coloring matter in perfect suspension 
throughout the solvent. 



DULL FINISH. 



'"F HE adoption of dull finishes on woodwork for 
interiors is now quite popular, the colors embrac- 
ing browns, greens, reds and other shades in great 
variety, but while these dull effects have an undoubted 
artistic value, we do not consider them so beautiful 
as the soft richness of the egg shell gloss that Berry 
Brothers' Luxeberry Wood Finish has made so pop- 
ular. 



and how to finish them. 71 

Most of the colors included in the various styles of 
finish described herein may be reproduced in the dull 
finish, the main feature being the entire absence of 
gloss. 

As already explained, the finish produced with 
Lacklustre does not resemble a rubbed varnish effect 
in any way, but is more like a wax finish in appear- 
ance. 

The production of the finish is quite simple, con- 
sisting merely of the application of one coat of Lack- 
lustre with a soft brush and rubbing off with a bunch 
of cotton waste or piece of cheese cloth. 

The covering capacity of Lacklustre is about 600 
square feet to the gallon. 



IMITATION RUBBED FINISH. 

Where economy is a consideration and a rubbed 
finish effect is desired, it may be obtained by the 
use of a finishing coat of our Dulgloss. This useful 
finishing material dries naturally to a dull surface 
closely resembling an Egg shell gloss and makes a 
handsome, durable finish. 



72 



Natural Woods 



GENERAL NOTES. 



importance 
of a gooa 
surface to 
finish on. 



Necessary- 
conditions 
for a first- 
class fin- 
ish. 



T is of the utmost importance to have a clean, 

smooth surface if a first-class finish is desired. 

To this end, all finishing operations in natural 

woods should be commenced by sandpapering the 

surface to be finished until it is perfectly smooth. 

Another desirable and even necessary condition 
for a first-class job is the temperature. 

Varnish is very susceptible to atmospheric condi- 
tions and cannot dry properly in a cold room; and 
if it has been exposed to a low temperature long 
enough to cause it to become thick it should be al- 
lowed to stand in a warm place until it regains its 
normal consistency. 

Reducing with turpentine may be a quicker way 
to prepare varnish for the brush, but it creates un- 
natural conditions and injures its lustre. 



and how to finish them. 



73 



The proper temperature in which to spread var- 
nish is about 70° F., and if the owner demands a 
first-class finish he should see that the necessary 
heat is supplied. 

Work that is to be polished should be given not 
less than three coats of Luxeberry Wood Finish or 
varnish. 

A nice egg shell gloss can be produced with two 
coats. 

The cause of many an unsatisfactory job of fin- 
ishing may be traced to hurried work. The allow- 
ance of sufficient time between coats is a rule that 
cannot be broken without injury to the finish. 

To paraphrase the old proverb, "Finish in haste, 
repent at leisure.'' 

The object in sandpapering the first coat of Stain, 
as directed in the foregoing, is twofold, it smooths 
down the grain which has a tendency to raise more 
or less after the application of the Stain, and throws 
up the high lights by removing a portion of the 
Stain from the markings of the wood, thus causing 
them to stand out in greater contrast than they 
would otherwise. The second coat of Stain is dilut- 
ed so that it will not obscure the grain while it 
deepens the color of the field or open grain of the 
wood. This second coat of Stain should be ap- 



Polished 
finish. 



Egg shell 
gloss. 



Evils of 
hurried 
work. 



Why the 
first coat 
of Stain 
is sand- 
papered. 



Why the 
second 
coat of 
Stain is 
diluted 



74 



Natural Woods 



Why a coat 
of Shellac 
precedes 
the filling. 



plied very sparingly, and the best results are ob- 
tained by rubbing it on with a rag. Should it be 
necessary after the application of the second coat of 
Stain, a slight rubbing with polishing sandpaper will 
make the surface perfectly smooth for the finishing 
coat. 

The object of preceding the filling with a light 
coat of thin Shellac is to protect the solid parts of 
the wood against discoloration by the filler. In 
other words, the thin film of Shellac does not fill 
the open grain of the wood to any appreciable ex- 
tent, allowing full ingress of the filler where it is 
needed, while it makes an impervious coating over 
the solid structure, preventing the wood from ab- 
sorbing the filler where it is not wanted, so that it is 
easily removed by a light sandpapering after the 
filler has become dry. 

It therefore enables a much cleaner job to be done 
than would be possible without the Shellac coat, 
overcoming the muddy or cloudy appearance that 
is sometimes seen, and enhancing the beauty of 
the finish by making a more distinct contrast be- 
tween the high lights and low lights. 
, A successful job of refinishing depends largely 
upon the care bestowed on cleaning off the old sur- 
face. This is accomplished in various ways, ac- 



and how to -finish them. 



75 



cording to the condition of the finish and the desired 
results. If the old finish is badly checked it may be 
necessary to get right down to the wood in order to 
make a satisfactory job. A good cleaning with 
soap and water, followed by a judicious use of sand- 
paper may prove sufficient in some cases where the 
old finish is in fair condition. If the cleaning and 
sandpapering leave the surface uneven in color 
tone, uniformity may be restored by a careful use 
of Stain, or paste filler colored to the right shade 
and reduced to the consistency of stain with spirits 
of turpentine. A coat of Shellac is desirable after 
staining, and the finish may then be proceeded with 
by the application of varnish in the regular way. 

Too much emphasis cannot be given to the fact 
that no varnish can dry properly over a greasy 
surface. 



Refinishing 
old work. 



Beware of a 
greasy- 
surface. 



In refinishing church and school seats and other Refinishing 

° church 

work of this nature, grease is always present, and and school 

seats. 

unless it is entirely removed the finish will remain 
tacky. 

It will be noticed that in the directions for using 
our Luxeberry Wood Finish, we invariably say.. 
Luxeberry Wood Varnish, "White" or "Light." 
It is only absolutely necessary to use the Luxeberry 



76 



Natural Woods 



Luxeberry 
Wood 
Finish 

"White" 
desirable 
for the 
finest 
' work. 



Why woods 
turn dark 
and how 
to defer it. 



Use and 
omission 
of Shellac 
coat. 



Wood Finish, "White" (which is almost colorless), 
when very light woods are to be finished in the 
natural color ; in all other cases the "Light" may be 
used. 

Whenever expense, however, is a secondary con- 
sideration, we always recommend the use of the 
Luxeberry Wood Finish "White" on any wood, as 
it is extra nice and well repays the small additional 
cost per gallon. 

It is the inevitable tendency of all woods to grow 
darker with age, but where it is desired to preserve 
the natural color of the wood as long as possible, 
it can be done by preceding the filling, — or the 
varnishing when no filler is used — with a light 
coat of White Shellac. The reason for this is that 
oil applied directly to wood, causes it to turn dark, 
but by preceding it with a light coat of Shellac, 
the oil in the filler or varnish cannot penetrate the 
pores of the wood, which consequently retains its 
natural color longer than it otherwise would. 

In cases where the wood is filled, the Shellac, 
coat may be omitted if desired, but no great econ- 
omy is effected thereby as at least an additional coat 
of Luxeberry Wood Finish (or other Finish) 
would be necessary to make up for such omission. 



and how to finish them. 



77 



Staining old 
work. 



Oil and Spirit Stains possess some advantages Co t ^ ara ' 
over Water Stains, among which may be men- onTnd* 
tioned their comparative immunity from freez- Yttlnl 
ing, although use tends to obscure the grain of 
the wood more or less, and they do not produce 
such rich color effects as Water Stains. 

For staining old work Oil or Spirit Stains should 
always be used. The reason for this is that water 
stains perform their work by absorption, and in 
old work the porous properties of the wood are 
either destroyed or impaired by the previous fin- 
ishing, so that the water stain cannot penetrate. 

A fact worth remembering- is that the same same stain 

° will not 

Stain will not produce exactly the same shade on s p a ^ n ° e d u c %£ 
all woods. The porous wood will absorb more ^ r 00 £? a11 
Stain than hard, close grain woods, and con- 
sequently the color effect will be darker on the 
more porous wood. Hard woods with pro- 
nounced grain or markings will also take Stain in 
a different manner from woods showing no grain. 
The obvious reason for this is that the Stain pen- 
etrates more deeply into the spongy portions of 
the woods so that the harder parts or the grain 
show lighter, and consequently change the gen- 
eral color effect. 



:s 



Natural Woods 



Covering 
capacity 
of varnish. 



Covering 
capacity 
of Shellac. 

Covering 
capacity 
of Water 
Stains. 



Covering 
capacity 
of Spirit 
Stains. 



Covering 
capacity 
of Oil 

Stains. 



The approximate covering capacity of varnish 
used under normal conditions is about 600 square 
feet to the gallon, one coat. 

These figures are not arbitrary, however, as one 
finisher will make a given quantity of varnish cover 
a larger area than another, much depending upon 
the manner in which it is spread. 

A gallon of Shellac should cover from 100 to 150 
square feet more than the same quantity of varnish. 

The covering capacity of water stains differs ac- 
cording to the wood on which it is used. 

On open grained woods a gallon of water stain 
will cover about 650 square feet, while the same 
quantity en close grained hard woods would prob- 
ably cover 100 square feet more surface. On soft 
woods a gallon of water stain will cover from 100 
to 200 feet less than the above estimates, the ab- 
sorbency of the wood determining the covering 
capacity of the stain. 

Spirit stains, owing to their tendency to evapo- 
rate and strike into the wood, have a much smaller 
covering -capacity than water stains — approximately 
one-half. 

Oil Stains have about the same covering capacity 
as water stains on hard woods and will cover mere 



and how to finish them 



79 



surface on soft woods, as they do not absorb as 
water stains do. In other words, a gallon of oil 
stain w r ill cover about 600 square feet or so on either 
hard or soft woods. 

Liquid Fillers are sometimes used as first coats 
on close grained woods from motives of economy 
when shellac is considered too expensive. 

They are not intended for use on open grained 
woods, as they are not fillers in the strict sense of 
the word, but first coaters, and will not fill the 
grain of such woods as oak, ash, chestnut, etc. 

Liquid Fillers should not be used for first coats 
in finishing floors or fine jobs of natural wood 
finishing. 

The covering capacity of Liquid Filler is about 
250 square feet to the gallon. 

In the use of Paste Filler the number of pounds 
to the gallon can be controlled by the finisher and 
is determined by the wood to be filled, the more 
opened grained woods requiring the filler to be 
heavier in body than the close grained woods. 

For instance, mahogany, walnut and butternut 
are open grained woods, but are not nearly so 
open grained as oak, ash or chestnut, so that for 



Liquid Fill- 
ers, their 
uses, 
limita- 
tions and 
covering 
capacity. 



Paste Filler 
rules for 
reducing. 



80 



Natural Woods 



Covering 
ca ua city 
of Paste 
Filler. 



Our experi- 
ence in 
wood fin- 
ishing is 
yours for 
the ask- 
ing. 



Finished 
samples 
of wood 
sent free. 



the three first named woods the filler need not be 
so heavy in body as for the three last named. 

The following rule for reducing paste filler for 
use is a good one : for oak, ash, chestnut and other 
very coarse grained woods, use 7 to 9 pounds to the 
gallon, while for mahogany, walnut, butternut ana 
similar grained woods a mixture of 6 pounds ox 
paste filler to the gallon will be found sufficient. 

The covering capacity of paste filler reduced 
for use is about 300 square feet to the gallon when 
used on work where no waste occurs. 

We invite inquiries from any who may desire 
information on wood finishing, and as Varnish 
Manufacturers of nearly fifty years' experience, 
we may without affectation claim to be compe- 
tent authority on the subject. 

We keep on hand finished specimens of the 
various woods used for interior finishing purposes, 
which we will mail, post paid, to any address, or 
we will finish up any samples of w^ood that may 
be sent to us for the purpose, returning same with 
explicit instructions as to the mode of finishing. 



BERRY BROTHERS, Limited. 



A 



CONDENSED FACTS ON COVERING 
CAPACITIES. 

gallon of varnish will cover approximately 600 
sq. feet, one coat. 



A gallon of Shellac will cover from 700 to 750 
sq. feet, 

A gallon of Water Stain covers about 650 sq. feet 
on open-grained woods, and on close-grained hard 
woods, 100 sq. feet more. On soft woods a gallon 
of Water Stain will cover from 400 to 500 sq. feet. 

A gallon of Spirit Stain will cover from 300 to 
100 square feet, according to the wood. 

A gallon of Oil Stain will cover about 600 sq. feet 
on all woods. 

A gallon of Paste Filler reduced for use covers 
about 300 sq. feet, and from seven to nine pounds 
of paste filler are required to make a gallon. 

A gallon of Shingletint covers about 160 feet, one 
coat, if brushed on; l l / 2 gallons covers the same 
surface, two coats. From 2J4 to 2y 2 gallons will 
dip 1,000 shingles, and another gallon is enough for 
a brush coat in addition after the shingles are laid. 



MAY 18 (911 






Special Note 

FDR the benefit of all Inquirers, we maintain a tech- 
nical correspondence department, and also a per- 
fectly equipped finishing room, presided over by 
an expert wood finisher, and a corps of competent as- 
sistants. 
•I IF you want to see samples of wood finished up in 

any particular way, 
•J IF any points should come up not fully touched upon 

herein that you do not fully understand, 
t| IF you want advice as to to the use of Varnish, or on 
the treatment of woods to get the best results in the 
way of a finish, 
€J IF you are in doubt on any matter concerning Var- 
nish or its uses, or on the subject of wood Finishing 
in any of its phases, 

ASK BERRY BROTHERS 



One copy del. to Cat. Div. 
MAY 25 1911 






LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 




| 014 050 419 1 

BERRY BROTHERS, Limited 

ESTABLISHED 1858 

DETROIT 

NEW YORK - * 262 Pearl St. 

BOSTON = - 520 Atlantic Ave. 

PHILADELPHIA 26*28 North Fourth St. 

BALTIMORE • 29 South Hanover St. 

CHICAGO = - 59 E. Lake St. 

CINCINNATI - - 420 Main St. 

ST. LOUIS - 112 South Fourth St. 

SAN FRANCISCO 666-668 Howard St. 



Canadian Factory: 



Walkerville, Ont. 



